Anticipation can be one’s greatest enemy so if one expects nothing, you cannot be disappointed. It would have been difficult to think that Dior might seamlessly segue from the hands of John Galliano to a time when he is not at the helm and flourish.
The haute couture at Dior has been an over flowing reservoir for the brand under Mr. Galliano’s leadership for over a decade. He provided a stodgy old house and brand with a life that it could never imagine so this first show minus his talents might simply be regarded as disappointing…at least that would be putting it mildly.
This Fall collection, under the stewardship of 2 of Galliano’s former colleagues, proves that it takes more than a name and a reputation to offer a spectacle of dazzling clothing. This was by no means dazzling, even with all the spectacular artisans and ateliers at their disposal, these 2 could not and did not send out an even close to stellar collection. One can assume that the pressure must have been excruciating and yet these 2 chose to key in to the elements that mattered least…hair, makeup, hats, music. They seemed to have discarded the DNA of the house that
Galliano built or for that matter that the brand stands for and instead took off on some wildly bizarre tangent which included Talitha Getty, disco divas, Memphis and some other worldly creatures of indefinable description.
How can designers turn out a collection such as Dior and ignore the jackets and the rigid constructions that are so inherent to Dior? Even Galliano with all his languid dresses managed to be a master of construction which sadly does not appear in this collection…not even for a second. The powers that be at Dior will have some very serious thinking to do .
Yes the comparison to Galliano is inevitable so why try to be an imitation of what was? Dior conjures so many images, yes so many were used by Galliano but there were so many options and so many roads not taken, The vocabulary of Dior is huge so why didn’t someone tell these 2, who think they had the chance of their lives, to be their own people and be the new Dior and not some second rate version of the Dior that was of the Galliano era.